Free · No sign-up · Runs in your browser
Home Equity Loan & HELOC Calculator
Turn home value, mortgage balance, rate, and term into an exact monthly payment — fixed loan or revolving HELOC, with equity, CLTV, payoff date, charts, and a downloadable report. Switch modes any time; everything recalculates instantly.
Home Equity Loan & HELOC Calculator
Switch modes, type your numbers, get the payment instantly — with equity, CLTV, payoff date, charts, and a report you can download.
Only here — most bank calculators skip this
Loan vs. HELOC on the same $50,000
Fixed certainty against revolving flexibility. Same inputs, honest lifetime cost. Full guide →
How to Calculate a Home Equity Payment Step by Step
Second-lien math is just ordering — do it in this order and no lender quote can confuse you. Example: $450,000 home, $280,000 owed, $50,000 loan at 8.5% for 10 years.
- 1
Find usable equity
$450,000 × 80% = $360,000 − $280,000 owed = $80,000 max at best rates. Total equity ($170,000) is not borrowable — the cap is.
- 2
Check CLTV on your ask
($280,000 + $50,000) ÷ $450,000 = 73.3%. Under 80% means standard underwriting and the quoted rate actually applies.
- 3
Price the payment
$50,000 at 8.5% for 120 months: r = 0.007083, payment = $619.93/mo. At 0% it would be $416.67 — interest is the other $203.
- 4
Add fees to true cost
$500 closing on top of $74,391 lifetime payments = $74,891 true cost. APR (≈8.7%) folds this in — compare APRs, not rates.
- 5
Stress it
HELOC? Recompute at +2%: $40,000 at 11% repays at ~$455/mo vs $406 at 9%. If the stressed payment breaks the budget, draw less.
- 6
Date the payoff
120 payments from today lands the payoff month; $100/mo extra deletes ~20 payments and ~$4,600 interest.
Quick sanity check I use: every $10,000 borrowed at 8.5% costs ~$124/mo on a 10-year term and ~$96/mo on 15-year. If a quote is far from that, fees or a different term are hiding in it.
Loan, HELOC, Cash-Out Refi & Personal Loan
Fixed loan: certainty
One lump sum, fixed rate, fixed payment. Best for known bills — roof, consolidation, one tuition check. Prepay freely; every extra dollar skips APR-priced interest.
HELOC: flexibility
Borrow, repay, re-borrow during the draw; variable rate. Best for staged costs. Danger: interest-only years feel cheap, then repayment jumps 2–4×.
Cash-out refi: reset
Replaces your first mortgage with a bigger one. Wins only when first-mortgage rates fall — otherwise you reprice cheap old debt upward to access equity.
Personal loan: no lien
No appraisal, fast, but 10–15% rates and 2–7 year terms make payments brutal per dollar. Cheaper only for tiny amounts over short horizons.
Worked Examples
Real numbers borrowers search for. Click any card to load it in the calculator above.
$50k loan · 8.5% · 10yr
The classic: ~$620/mo, ~$24,400 interest. Extra $100/mo saves ~$4,600.
$80k max at 80% CLTV
$450k home, $280k owed → $80,000 ceiling at best rates. The honest max.
$40k HELOC · 9% · 10+15
Draw ~$300/mo interest-only, then ~$406/mo for 15 years. Stress +2% first.
$30k loan · 8% · 15yr
Lower payment path: ~$287/mo, ~$21,600 interest. Cheaper monthly, pricier lifetime.
$100k loan · 9% · 15yr
Big project: ~$1,014/mo, ~$82,500 interest. DTI check matters here.
$25k HELOC · 9.5% drawn half
$80k line, $25k drawn → ~$198/mo draw, ~$254/mo repay. Flexibility demo.
The CLTV Rule That Decides Everything
Combined loan-to-value — (first mortgage balance + new second lien) ÷ appraised home value — is the first filter on every home equity application, and it decides your fate before anyone looks at your credit score. Lenders cap it because the second lien loses first in foreclosure: if prices fall 10% and you borrowed to 95% CLTV, the second lender’s collateral is already underwater. The cushion between your total debt and the home’s value is their margin of safety, and every pricing tier, approval decision, and rate quote flows from it.
The formula is simple — maximum loan = (home value × CLTV cap) − mortgage balance — but each input has teeth. Home value means the lender’s appraised value or automated valuation, which routinely lands 3–8% below listing-site estimates, especially after fast price run-ups. The cap is 80% for the best rates at most banks. And the mortgage balance is the payoff figure, not your last statement. Plug in optimistic numbers and you’ll fall in love with a project budget no lender will fund — then pay for a second appraisal after restructuring. Work it with conservative numbers first; the “Use max at 80% CLTV” button in the calculator does exactly that in one click.
| CLTV cap | Max loan | What to expect |
|---|---|---|
| 60% | $0 | Cap ($270,000) is below what you owe — no second lien possible. |
| 70% | $35,000 | Excellent terms, but a small line — best for tiny projects. |
| 75% | $57,500 | Strong pricing at conservative banks and credit unions. |
| 80% | $80,000 | The standard ceiling: advertised rates, standard appraisals, fast approvals. |
| 85% | $102,500 | Available at some lenders with higher rates and stricter credit and income checks. |
| 90% | $125,000 | Rare and pricey — usually 740+ credit, DTI under 43%, full appraisal. |
Notice the gap that surprises everyone: $170,000 of equity produces only $80,000 of borrowing at standard caps. That $90,000 cushion stays with the lender, untouched, as insurance against price drops and selling costs. Borrowers who confuse “equity” with “available” waste weeks — and often an appraisal fee — chasing a number that was never on the table. If your project needs more than the cap allows, the honest fixes are paying down the first mortgage, waiting for documented appreciation (a new appraisal after real comparable sales, not hope), choosing a lender that genuinely offers 85–90% tiers, or scaling the project. What doesn’t work is applying everywhere at 95% CLTV and collecting hard inquiries.
One state plays by its own written rules: Texas caps all home-equity debt at 80% CLTV by state constitution, limits fees to 2% of the loan, mandates a 12-day cooling-off period, and allows only one home equity loan at a time. If the property is in Texas, treat 80% as law, not lender preference. A handful of other states add their own wrinkles — New York’s mortgage recording tax, for example, makes larger second liens disproportionately expensive unless structured carefully — but Texas is the only state where the constitution itself sets your borrowing ceiling. Details live in our loan vs. HELOC guide and the qualifying walkthrough below.
Appraisals: the Number That Overrules Yours
Almost every second lien requires a valuation, and it comes in three strengths. A full walk-through appraisal — a licensed appraiser measuring, photographing, and comparing your home to recent nearby sales — carries the most weight and costs $300–$700, often passed to you at closing. A drive-by or desktop appraisal uses photos and records without full access and runs cheaper but more conservative. An automated valuation model (AVM) is an algorithm’s instant estimate, the cheapest and the most skeptical of unique or recently renovated homes. Lenders choose the strength; hotter markets and higher CLTVs push them toward full appraisals, because the risk of an inflated value falls on them.
Protect yours before the appraiser arrives: document every improvement with costs and dates, because appraisers can only credit what they can verify — a $40,000 kitchen with receipts beats a vague “updated kitchen” every time. Tidy the exterior and fix the small visible defects (peeling paint, broken fixtures) that signal deferred maintenance and invite condition adjustments. And never anchor the conversation to a listing-site estimate; instead, pull three genuinely comparable closed sales within half a mile and six months, and have them ready. If the value still lands low, you have two honest moves: accept the smaller line the math supports, or pause and reapply after documented comparable sales strengthen — paying for a second appraisal on the same weak comps just doubles the fee. Remember that falling markets cut both ways: a 10% price drop on a $450,000 home erases $45,000 of borrowing power at 80% CLTV, which is exactly why lenders keep that cushion and why you should never borrow the maximum unless the payment survives a down year.
How Lenders Actually Underwrite a Second Lien
Past the CLTV gate, underwriters score four things. Credit: 620 is roughly the floor for approval anywhere mainstream, 680+ opens normal pricing, and 740+ unlocks the advertised best rates — second-lien pricing tiers are steeper than first-mortgage ones, so a 40-point score gap can cost a full percentage point. Debt-to-income: most lenders cap total monthly debts near 43–50% of gross income including the new payment. Run it yourself: $1,800 mortgage + $400 car and cards + a $620 equity payment = $2,820 ÷ $8,000 gross income = 35.3% DTI — comfortably inside. At 47% you’ll need to pay down a debt or borrow less; at 55%+ expect a decline regardless of score. The Affordability check in the calculator meters this automatically, with flags at both bands.
Collateral condition and liens: the appraiser confirms the home’s condition and the title search confirms lien position — existing HELOCs, tax liens, or judgments all count against your CLTV math, and a fixer with deferred maintenance can take a condition adjustment. Income documentation: W-2 borrowers sail through with pay stubs; self-employed borrowers should prep two years of returns, because second-lien underwriting discounts variable income harder than purchase underwriting. Typical timeline from application to funding is 2–6 weeks: docs and credit pull in days 1–3, valuation plus underwriting in days 4–14, approval and disclosures, then a federally mandated 3-day right of rescission on primary homes before money moves. HELOCs fund right after rescission as an open line; fixed loans fund as one lump sum.
HELOC Phases Without the Surprise
The draw period feels like a credit card: borrow up to the limit, pay interest (often only interest) on what you drew, repay and re-borrow freely. The repayment period feels like a loan: borrowing freezes and the balance amortizes over 10–20 years. The shock that blindsides borrowers is pure arithmetic. Take a $40,000 draw at 9%: interest-only costs $300/month for ten comfortable years — then repayment demands about $406/month for fifteen years, and that’s before any rate movement. Three numbers, one debt, and most borrowers only ever budgeted the first.
| Lifetime rate | Draw/mo | Repay/mo | Lifetime interest |
|---|---|---|---|
| 9% (today) | $300 | $406 | ~$45,000 |
| 11% (+2% stress) | $367 | $455 | ~$58,000 |
| 13% (+4% stress) | $433 | $506 | ~$72,000 |
Professionals budget backwards from that table: size the draw so the stressed repayment fits, not the teaser. Three habits separate comfortable HELOC borrowers from cautionary tales. First, pay principal during the draw even when only interest is due — every $1,000 prepaid at 9% skips roughly $1,700 of lifetime interest and softens the repayment jump. Second, keep utilization under half the line: a maxed-out line plus a rate rise is the double-hit behind most HELOC defaults, and high utilization drags credit scores until it’s paid down. Third, price intro rates honestly: a 3.99% teaser for 12 months saves real money early, but the loan reprices to prime-plus-margin after — model the intro in our HELOC calculator and confirm the post-intro payment fits before you draw, not after rates move.
Rates, Fees, and the APR Trick
Second-lien rates run 1–3 points above first mortgages for a structural reason: in foreclosure the second lien gets paid after the first, so lenders charge for the extra risk. Fixed home equity loans loosely track long-term bond yields; HELOCs track prime and typically move within weeks of Federal Reserve decisions. Your personal markup on top of those benchmarks comes from four dials: credit score (740+ for the best tier), CLTV (each 5% band can add an eighth to a quarter point), DTI, and occupancy — rentals and second homes pay more at every tier, and some lenders won’t write them at all above 80% CLTV.
Fees decide every close race, which is why the APR beats the rate for comparisons. The APR folds fees into an annualized cost, so it already knows what salespeople hope you won’t compute: a 7.99% rate with $1,500 in fees (8.4% effective APR) loses to 8.25% with $0 fees (8.3% APR) whenever you prepay, sell, or refinance within about five years. Our calculator computes that effective APR for both fee handlings — cash upfront or financed into the loan — because financed fees look free but accrue interest for the full term. Enter any lender’s quote as dollars or percent, either handling, and the “true cost” line settles the tie. As a rule of thumb, paying discount points only pays if you’ll keep the loan past break-even: $1,000 to cut 0.25% on $50,000 saves about $7/month — a twelve-year payback most second liens never survive, since the average one is prepaid or refinanced far sooner.
Which Option Fits Your Situation?
Fixed home equity loan — the signed-bid loan.
One lump sum, fixed rate, fixed payment. Best for known, one-time bills: roof replacement with a signed bid, debt consolidation, a single tuition payment. Prepay freely — extra principal earns your APR risk-free. Full math in the loan calculator.
HELOC — the staged-cost line.
Borrow, repay, re-borrow during the draw; variable rate. Best for phased or uncertain costs: multi-stage remodels, tuition paid semester by semester, a business buffer. Discipline required — the interest-only years feel cheap by design. Model both payments in the HELOC calculator.
Cash-out refinance — the reset button.
Replaces your first mortgage with a bigger one and hands you the difference. Wins only when market first-mortgage rates sit below your current rate — otherwise you reprice cheap old debt upward just to reach equity. Compare its closing costs (a full first-mortgage fee stack) against a second lien’s lighter fees.
Personal loan — the no-lien fallback.
No appraisal, funding in days, but 10–15% rates over 2–7 year terms make payments brutal per borrowed dollar. Cheaper only for small amounts over short horizons where lien costs would dominate. Never risk the house for a depreciating purchase you could cash-flow.
Seven Expensive Mistakes (and the Five-Minute Fixes)
- 1
Borrowing to the advertised max without a payment plan
Lenders approve maximums; budgets survive payments. Price the monthly payment first, the project second.
- 2
Budgeting the HELOC draw payment
The draw payment is rent on the debt; the repayment payment is the debt. Budget the larger, stressed number.
- 3
Comparing rates instead of effective APRs
Fees hide in rates and show in APRs. Any quote without an APR is a quote you can’t compare.
- 4
Using listing-site values for CLTV math
The lender’s appraisal decides. Run your numbers 5% below your estimate as a matter of habit.
- 5
Draining the full HELOC line immediately
Full utilization plus a rate rise is the classic distress pattern. Draw what the phase needs, keep half in reserve.
- 6
Ignoring the 12-day clock in Texas (or rescission everywhere)
Primary-home second liens carry rescission rights. Plan funding dates around them, not through them.
- 7
Raiding equity for depreciating spending
Cars, vacations, and general bills convert secured wealth into unsecured memories — with foreclosure risk attached.
Turn This Page Into a Decision in Ten Minutes
Run this sequence and you’ll know more than most applicants walking into a bank branch. First, enter home value and mortgage balance, press the max-at-cap button, and write down the fundable ceiling — that’s your project budget’s hard edge. Second, price your scenario (loan or HELOC), add fees the way the lender quoted them, and read the effective APR and true cost, not the payment alone. Third, open Affordability check, enter income and debts, and confirm DTI sits under 43%. Fourth, stress it: extra payments on a loan, +2% on a HELOC. Fifth, download the report and send it to two more lenders asking them to beat the effective APR. The cheapest second lien is rarely the first quote — it’s the third quote, compared properly. Formulas behind every number are published in Methodology.
Frequently Asked Questions
How much home equity loan can I get?
Multiply your home value by the lender’s CLTV cap (usually 80%) and subtract your mortgage balance. On a $450,000 home owing $280,000: $450,000 × 0.80 = $360,000 − $280,000 = $80,000 borrowable — even though total equity is $170,000. Type your numbers into the calculator above and press “Use max at 80% CLTV” for the exact figure.
What is the monthly payment on a $50,000 home equity loan?
At 8.5% APR for 10 years: about $620/month, with roughly $24,400 total interest. Stretch the same loan to 15 years at 8%: about $478/month but roughly $36,000 lifetime interest. Longer terms cut the payment and raise the lifetime cost — the calculator shows both side by side.
What is the monthly payment on a $100,000 home equity loan?
At 8.5% for 15 years: about $985/month, with roughly $77,200 total interest. At 8% for 10 years: about $1,213/month but only ~$45,600 interest. Run both terms in the calculator before you choose — the 15-year option costs over $30,000 more in interest here.
What is a HELOC draw period vs. repayment period?
The draw period (often 10 years) lets you borrow, repay, and re-borrow up to your limit — many lenders ask interest-only payments. Then the repayment period (often 15 years) freezes borrowing and amortizes the balance, so payments typically jump 2–4×. Always budget the repayment payment, not the draw payment.
Home equity loan vs. HELOC — which is better?
Take the fixed loan when you need the full amount on day one — a roof, debt consolidation, one tuition bill — and want payment certainty. Take the HELOC for staged or uncertain draws like phased remodels or semester-by-semester tuition, where you pay interest only on what you use. Compare both on the same amount in the Loan vs. HELOC box on this page.
What CLTV do lenders allow on home equity loans?
80% combined loan-to-value unlocks the best rates almost everywhere. Some lenders go to 85–90% with higher rates and stricter credit and income checks; above 90% is rare and pricey. Texas caps all home-equity debt at 80% by state constitution. The calculator warns you the moment your inputs cross 80% or your chosen cap.
Are home equity loan rates fixed or variable?
Home equity loans are almost always fixed — the payment on day one is the payment in year ten. HELOCs are almost always variable, priced as prime plus a margin, with annual and lifetime caps. A +2% rise on a $40,000 HELOC balance adds roughly $50/month to the repayment payment.
What fees and closing costs should I expect?
Fixed loans: $300–$700 appraisal, 0–1% origination, $200–$800 title and recording — many lenders credit some fees for autopay. HELOCs: often $0 upfront, then $50–$75 per year plus early-closure fees. Enter fees in the calculator (dollars or percent, upfront or financed) to see the true cost and the effective APR, not just the payment.
Do extra principal payments really save money?
Yes — $100/month extra on a $50,000, 8.5%, 10-year loan saves about $4,600 in interest and erases 20 payments. Every extra dollar skips straight to principal, earning a guaranteed, risk-free return equal to your APR. The calculator above prices your exact extra-payment plan instantly.
What credit score do I need for a home equity loan or HELOC?
Most lenders want 620+ to qualify, with the best rates reserved for 740+. But score is only half the test: lenders cap debt-to-income near 43–50% including the new payment, require 15–20% equity to remain, and order their own appraisal. A 780 score with 55% DTI still gets declined.
How is debt-to-income (DTI) calculated with a home equity loan?
Add your current mortgage payment, all other monthly debts, and the new equity payment, then divide by gross monthly income. Example: $1,800 mortgage + $400 debts + $620 equity payment = $2,820 ÷ $8,000 income = 35.3% DTI — inside most caps. Use the Affordability check in the calculator to meter your own figure.
Is home equity loan or HELOC interest tax-deductible?
Sometimes: if the money buys, builds, or substantially improves the home securing the loan and you itemize deductions, interest may be deductible within IRS limits. Personal spending — vacations, cars, general bills — generally isn’t. Confirm your situation with a tax professional before counting on it.
How does a HELOC intro or teaser rate work?
Some lenders offer a below-market rate for the first 6–12 months of the draw period — e.g., 3.99% before the regular 9% variable rate kicks in. It cuts early interest but changes nothing long-term: model it in our HELOC calculator’s intro fields and budget the post-intro payment from day one.
What happens when my HELOC draw period ends?
Borrowing freezes and the outstanding balance amortizes over the repayment period — payments typically jump 2–4× overnight. A $40,000 balance at 9% goes from $300/month interest-only to about $406/month over 15 years, before any rate rise. Our calculator shows both payments so the jump never surprises you.
How fast can I get a home equity loan or HELOC funded?
Typically 2–6 weeks: application and documents (days 1–3), appraisal or valuation plus underwriting (days 4–14), approval and disclosures, then a 3-day right of rescission on primary homes. HELOCs fund right after rescission as an open line; loans fund as one lump sum.
Will applying for a home equity loan hurt my credit score?
One hard inquiry dings a few points briefly — rate-shop within a 14–45 day window and same-purpose pulls count as one. After opening, high HELOC utilization (over ~50% drawn) can drag scores until you pay it down, while on-time payments on either product help over time.
What is a second mortgage?
A second mortgage is any loan secured by your home behind your first mortgage in lien priority — that’s exactly what home equity loans and HELOCs are. “Second” describes claim order in foreclosure, not the number of loans you have. Because the second lien takes more risk, its rate runs 1–3 points above first-mortgage rates.
Should I get a cash-out refinance instead of a home equity loan?
A cash-out refi replaces your entire first mortgage with a bigger one and hands you the difference. It wins when market rates are below your current mortgage rate — you improve the big loan and tap equity at once. It loses when your first mortgage rate is already low, since you’d reprice cheap old debt upward just to access equity. Compare both paths before choosing.
Do I need an appraisal for a home equity loan or HELOC?
Yes, in almost all cases — the lender orders it (or an automated valuation) and lends against that number, not listing sites or tax assessments. Appraisals often land 3–8% below optimistic estimates, which shrinks the 80%-CLTV ceiling directly. A low appraisal is the most common surprise in second-lien applications.
Is my data private when I use these calculators?
Yes. Every calculation runs entirely in your browser — no account, no database, no numbers sent to any server. Share links encode inputs in the URL so only people you send them to can see them, and clearing site data removes the only things ever stored: theme, language, and cookie-banner choice.
Still stuck? Full FAQ · Methodology & formulas · Contact us